RØDE - NT1 5th Generation

Nt1 is great for quiet recordings, but tbone actually have 16db noise and are very inconsistent. I suggest Earsight Omni Standard, inexpensive but handmade, small, very sensitive and low selfnoise.

The Rode NT-1 Fifth Generation is an absolute win. Internal self-noise nine dB better than a $4,000 Neumann U-87, plus a built-in 32 bit floating point A/D and USB 3 interface on a USB-C connector hidden between the pins of the XLR. 32 bit float is a total game changer for VO, especially audiobooks, video games, and animation. It's not about more "punch", "kick", or "air, LOL.  It's about headroom and never again clipping, without ever having to ride a gain fader (because there isn't one).  Regardless of the material I'm doing, I can fearlessly, whisper, or scream my brains out, and as long as I don't physically shock the microphone diaphragm, I can deal with any dynamic range issues later.  As far as additional storage requirements go, memory has become "too cheap to measure".  You can always export in whatever bit rate and sample size the client wants. It's like shooting with a 4x5 view camera and distributing super sharp wallet size photos. 😁 Here's some background: https://www.wired.com/story/32-bit-float-audio-explained/ https://youtu.be/6V52O2ELcz8?si=ZWFT6qpgUd3J4sUr https://www.reddit.com/r/LocationSound/s/OuofccZSRt Zoom UAC-232 set up video https://youtu.be/6iwMcqN6kus George Whittam has a nice piece on it as well: https://georgethe.tech/service-page/training-module-32-bit-float-recording-2024-1713484863459x875899476379435000 PS - That means you don't need an interface either, and at a retail of about $250 for the mic, that means you're almost getting it for free.

I would not buy a Cloudlifter just so I can use a mediocre mic like the Samson S9U. Seems like a waste of money. I would not buy an SM7B or SM7DB just for work calls and gaming. That's ballpark $500 just so your coworkers and gaming buddies can hear you. People want the SM7B because we are living in an era of peak SM7B hype... every streamer and podcaster seems to use one. Don't get me wrong, it's a good mic, but you shouldn't buy an expensive mic just for the hype. Get a Røde NT1 or AT2035 or similar large-diaphragm condenser under $200. These all have higher sensitivity, which means you can turn the gain down on your audio interface. You'll sound clear and the mic will work great with your interface. IMO, spending $400 instead of $200 doesn't get you a much better mic. Most of the really good-sounding mics cost somewhere north of $700, with a few excellent, less-expensive dynamics below that price point (but you need more gain to use them).

Do you know what it means for a microphone to be more sensitive? It means that the microphone puts out a stronger signal for the same sound. Play the same sound for two microphones... if one microphone puts out a stronger signal, you that the microphone is more sensitive. But, isn't that exactly a solution for your problem? Your problem is that the signal is not strong enough, and it sounds quiet. So if you get a more sensitive microphone, the signal will be stronger, and you can turn the gain down. "Sensitive" does not mean that the microphone picks up more details or anything like that. There is a kind of myth that dynamic microphones somehow don't sound bad in a poorly-treated room. Maybe it's time to put that myth to rest. But a lot of people believe that myth, and keep repeating it on YouTube and Reddit. Coincidentally, Dan Worall complained about that myth in a video he posted today: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nP74656yTi8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nP74656yTi8) "No, condenser mics don't pick up more background noise. Not really."

Rode Condenser 5th Gen. Just a heads up Rode will be ghosting you when you present them with issues. Like they'll reply and then you'll reply and then ghost. And it happens like that unless you are on their ass.

Rode NT1. Got it used for $200 AUD, sounds great for vocals and guitar amps.

Definitely this. Great mic, and can switch to using it with interface once the piggy bank runs to one

If you can stretch the budget a little, Rode NT1 5th Gen ($220), Lewitt LCT 440 ($249) SE 2200 ($299) The 200-300 range is the sweet spot for a mic that could last your whole career. If you have to stay under $200, Rode Signature Series ($150), AT857R ($179), a used SE2200 ($185) or a used Sennheiser MK4 (This is a 300-400 mic that regularly goes used for as low as $125!) [https://www.ebay.com/itm/388758631449?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=388758631449&targetid=2274951440814&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9193741&poi=&campaignid=22608732687&mkgroupid=181016090140&rlsatarget=pla-2274951440814&abcId=10333673&merchantid=5594975691&geoid=9193741&gad\_source=1&gad\_campaignid=22608732687&gbraid=0AAAAAD\_QDh-3WmbCtLMTd9ig4NvbIxxK-&gclid=CjwKCAjwlOrFBhBaEiwAw4bYDXm5Kpi0-dYcsKonby2LJ21Hg03UDkOpBoW4MJzeX9uz5-r7cnvH2hoC0rsQAvD\_BwE](https://www.ebay.com/itm/388758631449?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=388758631449&targetid=2274951440814&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9193741&poi=&campaignid=22608732687&mkgroupid=181016090140&rlsatarget=pla-2274951440814&abcId=10333673&merchantid=5594975691&geoid=9193741&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22608732687&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh-3WmbCtLMTd9ig4NvbIxxK-&gclid=CjwKCAjwlOrFBhBaEiwAw4bYDXm5Kpi0-dYcsKonby2LJ21Hg03UDkOpBoW4MJzeX9uz5-r7cnvH2hoC0rsQAvD_BwE)

Rode NT1. Got it used for $200 AUD, sounds great for vocals and guitar amps.

Another vote Ror rode NT1. These are not good for VO work. I used a blue yeti and thought it was fine since it beat most headphone mics, but once I got the Rode the difference was dramatic, and there are far more amazing microphones out there, but Rode has best bang for your buck no doubt.

I started off with a Blue Yeti. It's under a hundred bucks. Admittedly, once I realized what I was doing I bought a proper mic, but it was 'fine' as a starter mic. I would say the best cheaper end proper mic you should consider is the Rode NT1. It ticks all your boxes where a mic under $100 probably won't. The Rode is about $150 and will last you longer than a mic under $100 will, especially once you get into things and understand your sound quality better. The Rode is often considered one of the best 'entry level' mics out there.

Just to clarify what's going on here: * Blue Yetis are *not* recommended microphones for voice work. From experience, they have a really mixed reliability rating for the electronics (death by overheating), and they're really just designed to be plug-and-play USB mics with a built-in preamp. The capsules cannot really handle a wide range of volume, and the early versions only supported 16-bit audio, so you get digital clipping and distortion really quickly. * Be prepared to spend between $200-$500 for a quality microphone, and $200-$500 for a quality audio interface, depending on how many inputs / outputs you need. If you know what you're looking for, you can find deals on demo models and B-stock (Sweetwater is great for this). * The other half of this is your mic technique. If you're staying at the same distance from the mic and then ramping up into yelling from your normal speaking voice, yeah, it's gonna clip! You need to learn how to pull back and/or away to the side to tame volume jumps like that. Work with a teacher or coach to refine this. * A good voice director / engineer should identify lines with volume for you, so you can avoid straining your voice by jumping between levels, and get the "loud" takes done as separate lines, though some volume jumps are unavoidable. Your setup should be something like this: * A quality XLR, 48v phantom powered condenser microphone. No onboard electronics, preamps, interfaces, or USB anything. They may have switches to select polar patterns (sensitivity / which side), and to engage built-in -10db pads and low cut filters to reduce bass rumble, etc. * A "spider" shockmount for the microphone, which attaches to your mic stand or mic arm. This isolates it from vibrations that might pass through the desk. * A pop filter for the microphone, that deflects air from the mic capsule on plosives (P, B, T, etc.) to tame peaks. * A quality audio interface that provides an XLR connection and switchable 48v phantom power for your mic, has a good amount of clean gain, at least one pair of line outputs if you have studio monitors, and a good full-sized 1/4" headphone output. * Some sort of tamed space for recording - if you don't have a booth, something like a small bedroom with carpets and curtains, or a deep coat closet (with coats!) works. Plenty of DIY booth plans out there that you can make with moving blankets and PVC pipe. My recommended gear for a serious beginner: * Mics: Rode NT1 or NT2A; Aston Spirit; Warm Audio WA47 or WA87 (good clones of Neumanns); Audio-Technica AT2050. I recommend these because they're all reputable brands, the prices are reasonable but not dirt cheap, and if necessary they retain their retail value. * Interfaces: Audient iD4 (single input, perfect for VO, great quality); MOTU M2 (2-in, high quality); Focusrite Scarlett Solo (single input, very popular). * Shockmount: Sometimes there are ones of the same brand that come with the mics in a bundle, which is fine, I also recommend the Rycote USM InVision universal shock mount. * Pop Filter: The industry standard is the Stedman, a metal screen with a patented design that deflects air at an angle. But any decent one will do! But again: quality gear will help, technique will take you the rest of the way. Check the Helpful Resources sidebar section here for guides!

Please don't stress about the U87 comments-it's really not necessary for audiobooks. I'm in a Discord with 50,000 voice actors, and the key is to use a mic that is easy to listen to for hours on end. A used KSM32, for example, often goes for around $200 on Reverb and works great. Try to avoid mics like the MKH 416 (better for commercial work), which are better for grabbing attention but can be fatiguing over 3-4 hours without EQ. The key is to pick something that's easy on the ears. Here are some examples: EM91C ($49, easy to listen to), Baby Blue Bottle ($160, easy to listen to), KSM32 (smooth), NTG5 Line Audio CM4 (budget, easy to listen to; hard to find, quite similar to the NTG5) Shure SM7B Warm 47JR Ethos Blue Sona Another point of note is that noise standards for ACX standards can sometimes be a pain in the ass so many voiceactors just use a mic with a low self noise to make things easier, ie a RODE NT1, etc. Then EQ it to their liking.

The podmic can take a long walk off a short pier. Rode is great, but the podmic ain't it. NT1 is the best all around low-price XLR. Once you get more to invest, you can take a trip to sweetwater and really do a mic shootout, but the NT1 rarely disappoints.

I seem to have skipped the "recording" aspect here. In which case, I still stand with the Peavey PVi2 for starters, as it is still very clear and resistant to noise. However, studio-grade mics can get expensive very fast. Once you have something to work with, start putting your pennies away for a good larger diaphragm mic down the road. For a "starter" studio mic, I would suggest a Rode NT1 $150-$200. It's not a $2000 Telefunken, but it will get you in the ballpark. Sort of...

It's not the DAW or the app on your phone that makes the recordings better or worse in quality, it's the mic itself, the analog-to-digital converter and ofc the quality settings you've chosen for the recorded files. How exactly did you record the mic on your headphones? Did you connect them with a cable both to your phone and your computer? The best option either way would be to buy an audio interface and proper mic. The analog-to-digital converter (ADC) and digital-to-analog converter (DAC) in the audio interface that's built-in to your computer (usually called soundcard) aren't of high enough quality or have enough features for use in recording professional equipment, so you need a real recording audio interface to use better quality mics. USB-mics have an integrated audio interface, but they usually also have stuff like built-in filters that are tuned for speech and noise reduction circuits that you can't disable, so most of them are not very good for recording vocals. My best budget recommendations would be to get either a Lewitt LCT-240, Rode NT-1 or SE Electronics X1S and either an Audient EVO 4, Focusrite Scarlett Solo gen 3 or Behringer UMC202HD audio interface.

Focusrite Scarlett interface and a AT2020 or Rode NT1. Used. Actually I saw a deal for the interface and AT2020 packaged together for not very much recently and they were new. Sm58 is good too but generally that's used as a live mic. But obviously the other commenter has had success with it. But if I were going to get a dynamic mic I'd be getting a RE20 but I think that's more than $150 or close to it and you're going to need the audio interface. I'd also encourage you to use Reaper instead of audacity. It's still a very lightweight program on your computer and it's free to use (but it's heavily suggested to buy it if you end up liking it a lot) and it's way more powerful, has more features, plugins, virtual instruments etc. The reverb it comes with is fantastic! Edit: it'd be better to save just a little more money if you can and make sure to get an audio interface and a decent condenser mic imo. It's an investment in your music. You'll just end up paying for it later if you skimp now.

I would probably advise you to go with the Samson Q2U. I have 3 mics: Rode NT-1 5th Generation, Fifine K688, and the Samson. I believe the Samson is the best sounding for my setup, or let's say the easiest to deal with in terms of noise and clarity - I record in a room with some basic sound treatment.

Rode NT1 - 5th gen if you need to start with USB, signature series if you already have an interface For that budget: AT 2035 (bit of a richer sound than the AT2020, because it has a larger diaphragm), AT 875R if you want a shotgun (good for less-than-ideal spaces) Need more recs? Audio Ninja Recommended VO Gear - [https://www.jordanaudio.ninja/recommended-voiceover-studio-gear](https://www.jordanaudio.ninja/recommended-voiceover-studio-gear) My VO Resource Doc (look for "Step 2: Home Studio") - [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HYWjTw1j97KkfYR6\_ORM3VAfkwa7SWw6MGlXq8-sohA/edit?tab=t.0](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HYWjTw1j97KkfYR6_ORM3VAfkwa7SWw6MGlXq8-sohA/edit?tab=t.0)

From the home recording perspective without much money for a great room, I've really been liking the UAD SD-1 for vocals. I get less room tone than the RODE NT-1 I was using and I get good results on rock vocals. It's basically just a SM7B and has a bit of a midrange hump I need to tame, but I have been enjoying it.

My recomendations in exactly this order: Rode NT1 5th Gen, Audio-Technica AT4040, sE Electronics X1 S, Shure MV7+, Lewitt LCT 440 PURE, Aston Origin, AKG P420, Audio-Technica AT2020 USB-X.

I bought a Rode NT-1, which has both XLR and USBC capability. Even comes with a nice, long USBC cable. I like the USBC option because it enables 32-bit audio.

The NT1 is one of the more balanced condenser mics money can buy and is a real contender in its price range. The SM7b will just sound like someone on a podcast is reading the book. That mic is very familiar sounding at this point. I think what you need to focus on more is which interface you're going to get. The SSL2 is, to me, leaps and bounds better than a Focusrite (especially if you're on Windows) More flexible, cleaner pres and AD/DA conversion, and rock solid stable drivers. It scales with mics. I have a first gen SSL2+ and a Neumann MT48 and the difference is truly negligible as far as quality of recordings goes. I've personally done the shootouts with thousands of $ of mics. You're going to have to get an interface regardless. Going with the NT1 will just save you almost $250.

NT1 5th gen is a little over your budget, but what I like about it is that you can use it with USB audio on your phone, but you're still able to use it as an amazing mic later, if you decide get an audio interface.

I don't really have any issues with the SM7DB My voice is already a bit nasally and I don't have a lot of acoustic treatment so it works wonders in that regard As far as the type of vocals are concerned I would probably say mine are a combination of sleep theory/Breaking Benjamin singing and a little screaming here and there I live in an apartment and used to have a RE20 and while it is still great at rejecting room noise it would still pick up neighbors walking around etc. Have you tried simply removing the filter on the SM7B Also my voice is already naturally loud so it does help when it comes to that I've only owned the SM7DB A cheap RODE Dash NT1 And the Swiss Army knife of microphones The SM 57 If you slap a foam filter on one of those it works great for vocals as well as well as everything else on the planet Since I live in an apartment I have to record everything else digitally Working on recording an EP that's me on every single instrument Using modern and massive 2 on the V drums as well as some of Buster's stuff But just for the sake of trying them out I'd be down to know what plug-ins you use or anyone else uses for their voice on the SM7B Guess I would wonder the same question just for the sake of being curious

AFAIK the nt1 and the nr1-a are very different. The latter is brighter and harsher.

Lots of self noise. The AT2035 is a little less expensive and much better quality. Rode NT1 is a great mic for starters and usually last quite a while (until it's replaced with something like a Neumann TLM103 or Sennheiser MKH416)

I use both the Shure SM7B and the Rode NT1 depending how I want the vocal to sound

I had a p120 for awhile as my first vocal recording mic and it got me through a few albums before I upgraded. I would go with Rode NT1 if you can spend a bit more though. It took a while for me to find a good pre to match with the p120. I ended up with a voice master from focusrite. The on board pres on interfaces are much better than in 08 when I used it though so you may have different results